We are staying in a unique property in the country five kms south of Noci. Abate Masseria appears to have been a farm that was repurposed to a very nice hotel set in the rolling farmland.
There are eight guest rooms including those in the trulli. Their primary business, though, seems to be large celebrations given its extensive dining hall. On a lovely Sunday afternoon a wedding celebration is in full swing.
(If viewing on a phone tap a picture to see the full image).
Our 20 minute drive to Martina Franca involved winding roads hemmed in by stone walls. In fact, in Puglia, stone walls are everywhere. One can only imagine the labour and time expended to create them. The walls cover the landscape in all directions.
These traditional mortarless structures built from local limestone, known locally as dry-stone walls (muretti a secco), are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage cultural art.
We met the other cyclists (2 Canadians, 2 Belgians) while our guide, Rocco, described the specifics of our E-bikes (the turbo feature was particularly appealing).
Then we ventured into the old town of Martina Franca (Saint Martin, Franca = free, i.e. no taxes). Again, no street(?), laneway(?), alley(?) is off limits to pedaling down towards blind corners and innocent pedestrians.
Some were simple too narrow and we were asked to walk our bikes through those sections.
Rocco was extremely informative regarding local history, architecture and religious features in various buildings and churches. The basilica was stunning.
Other buildings displayed equally impressive carvings and reliefs.
We then set off for Locorotondo, 10.5 kms across the valley. In the tradition of middle ages communities, building on top of a hill was basic common sense for military purposes. So we exited Martina Franca like tour cyclists speeding downhill, pedaled across the valley then switched to a very low gear with turbo assist for the ascent into Locorotondo (very un-tour like).
Along the way there were trulli houses where we glimpsed inside. Definitely limited space and utility.
Once we reached Locorotondo it was similar to Martina Franca in terms of narrow, twisty streets with plazas and churches dominating the community.
The church had an impressive dome and a painting of St. George famously slaying the dragon. Editor’s note: despite being the patron saint of England, amongst many other countries, George was actually a Roman soldier who was martyred in the late 3rd century and never actually had any physical relationship with England.
Back on the bikes and a return trip across the valley and up the hill to Martina Franca where we said goodbye to the group. Then we wandered through the old town seeking a restaurant for a late lunch. As Sunday church services had ended the town had suddenly become busy but we managed to get a table in the square.
Knowing a full dinner wasn’t necessary we stopped at a grocery store on the way back to Abate Masseria to load up on cheese, apples and assorted bread and cold cuts. After a quiet time reading at the pool we enjoyed a picnic supper with wine. Concerningly we are down to two bottles left from our purchase of yesterday. Methinks another stop at the winery is in our future.
Tomorrow is an unstructured day so we will see what adventures await.
