On our penultimate day in Sicily some bright spark suggested we walk (hike?) from the old town to the new to see the main cathedral and views from the top of the hill.

Well….that required go down, across and up.

(If viewing on a phone or tablet tap the photo to see the full picture).

Once we got there the view was worth the effort.

The climb was not over as it continued on, gasp, a street that could accommodate two vehicles side by side. Quite a change from our side of the hill.

The cathedral was, as usual, impressive in its architecture and murals.

The working pipe organ with over 3,000 pipes is so large it is spread over two areas of the church. Made in Bergamo and electrified in 1966 one can only imagine the sounds it can create.

At 12 noon, with so many churches (50) in such a limited area, when every bell in the town hammers out the time, it is a cacophony of sound that drowns out conversation.

Our good fortune with the weather continued with alternating cloudy and sunny skies but fortunately, no rain.

We finished our tour of Ragusa by taking a tourist tram on a circular route through the old town. It didn’t show us anything new except we didn’t have to walk! (Closing in on 190,000 steps for the holiday)!

A final wander around the city gardens with its views down the valley and it was time to leave.

We decided it would be more interesting to take the country route back to Catania versus the motorway. We started by following this car out of town.

It’s hard to describe the roads and hills and curves and blind corners in the countryside. Imagine a cottage road albeit paved or the very rural roads in Ireland. After a solid hour of twisting, turning and applying the brake (all from the back seat) we could finally exhale – although the scenery was quite beautiful. Double kudos to Doug for handling all the driving.

Back in Catania for one last night before a flight to Rome at a ridiculously early hour and then on to Canada.

Puglia and Sicily has been an extraordinary experience. Two thumbs up to everyone we met and everything we did and everything we saw. Hopefully you enjoyed our ride.

Our next adventure is already booked. It’s off to South Africa in April 2027 for golf, wine and safaris. Stay tuned. Cheers.

Before leaving the Syracuse area we stopped at the Neapolis Archaeological Park , site of ancient Roman and Greek ruins. A UNESCO world heritage site it contains a Greek theater, Roman amphitheater, ancient stone quarries, the symbolic ear of Dionysus and altar of Hieron.

The Roman amphitheater, site of gladiator battles, has monumental dimensions, measuring around 140 metres (460 ft) in length and 119 metres (390 ft) in width with a capacity of 15,000 spectators. Its design resembles a modern day sports stadium replete with different access points, seating levels, VIP sections, a second deck (long since dismantled) and so on.

(If viewing on a phone or tablet tap on a photo to see the full image).

Believed to have been built in the 1st century BC the Amphitheater remained active until 399 AD when Emperor Theodosius ordered the closure of gladiator schools and by 404 AD, gladiator games were permanently abolished. Much later under Charles V in the early 1500’s, stones from the amphitheater were used to provide fortification materials in Ortigia.

The other side of the park was evidence of the Greek occupation of the area including a full size theatre.

The original structure was created in the 5th century BC but a major reconstruction by Hieron II in the 3rd century BC replaced it.

Nearby are the quarries used to create these stadiums/theatres including a major cave said to have been dug by prisoners of Dionysus.

Additional remnants from both Roman and Greek influences were scattered about the park but it was time to leave and head south west.

First stop, Noto which is known for its baroque architecture, including the reconstructed 18th-century Noto Cathedral.  First, an understanding of baroque. In the late 1500’s the church started to move away from Renaissance architecture that was restrained and balanced. Its goal, amongst other objectives, was to inspire collective awe and reverence in the congregation.

Renaissance architecture aimed for harmony and proportion. Baroque focused on being highly decorative and theatrical.

In 1693 Noto was completely destroyed by a massive earthquake that leveled the entire city. This provided the opportunity to create a completely new city focused on baroque architecture using soft, orange sandstone.

Wandering is tiring work so a refueling stop was necessary.

The main cathedral did have some exquisite colours in both a ceiling mural and stained glass window.

Back in the car for a relatively quick stop in Modica which promotes itself for having the finest chocolate in all of Sicily. This area of the country is built on the edge of gorges and deep in river valleys. It required a winding roadway to get to the bottom where the chocolate shop was. A missed turn meant navigating a street so narrow we feared for the side mirrors and door handles of the car. Think Jason Bourne movies only at one thirtieth of his speed.

The poster can tell the story better than I can.

After sampling a few options we stocked up.

On to our last travel leg of the day but not before stopping for a few pictures of the wall of houses built above the town.

And, of course, the cathedral.

Off to Ragusa further to the northwest. The two sides of the town are split by an enormous gorge. We are staying in the old town which is humorous because the new town is likely few centuries old.

As the sun set on yet another great day we walked through the main square.

We will see these and more tomorrow as we approach the end of our Italy/Sicily journey.

Our BnB offers a communal breakfast so we chatted with couples from the island of Guernsey and San Francisco. Very friendly and informative.

We went to meet our guide for a town tour and were surprised and somewhat dismayed it wasn’t a walking tour at all but rather a smallish motorized rickshaw (the online booking process made no mention of this). Plus, Tony spoke virtually no English and relied on speaking Italian into his phone which then emerged in Google translate English from a mounted speaker. We did learn a few facts and rattled around a much wider area than might have been covered on foot but otherwise it was a revisit to the primary monuments we had seen yesterday.

There are some spectacular sights regardless of how one comes upon them starting with the Cattedrale Metropolitana della Nativita di Maria.

It’s also interesting how incredibly detailed carving in stone can be despite being created with rudimentary tools nearly 1,000 years ago .

Our loop included a view of the city of Syracuse on the mainland to the north.

It ended at the temple of Apollo, a sixth century BC edifice that over the centuries became a Byzantine church, Arab mosque, Norman church and Spanish military barracks.

By luck there was an open air market next door that provided entertainment and an appreciation that non tourists need to purchase daily staples. The displays were very impressive.

Following another hearty lunch we tried to walk off a few calories and fortuitously stumbled across the Archimedes museum. One may be aware of his major principles but his body of work is truly staggering.

Despite being born in Syracuse in the 2nd century BC, Archimedes is considered Greek as they controlled the city state at that time. His mathematical, engineering and celestial concepts including proofs paved the way for future scientific discoveries (Da Vinci built on many ideas and theories). The number of his inventions are too numerous to list here but the museum laid them out in an informative and interesting pattern. Sadly photos were not permitted other than that of the Syrakosia ship.

At the time this was the largest ship ever conceived/built. It could carry up to four tons of cargo and 1,924 passengers. A garden, heated swimming pool, library, gymnasium, chambers and small temple were all included. It was both a war ship and transport vessel that reflected a small town. And because of Archimede’s knowledge of buoyancy, it was a master craft in efficiency.

Next it was off to the port to meet Gaetano for our two hour cruise through the harbour then out around the peninsula and up the coast to see the rock formations and caves.

Of course first stop was just offshore to leap into the Ionian Sea for a refreshing dip.

Around the point and up the coast are numerous caves, one sufficiently large enough to accommodate the boat (we had very calm seas and little wind).

Some of the rock formations looked strangely familiar. Anyone see a bear or gorilla or ???

And of course the requisite tourist shots.

Gaetano was even foolish kind enough to let each of us briefly be captain of the boat.

The cruise was lots of fun as Gaetano kept us informed, fed and entertained.

After mooring and a brief rest it was back out to explore some more plus another meal!.

The day ended with a lovely glass of wine at a beautiful outdoor bar.

Tomorrow it’s off west to Ragusa and more exploring.

One last look at Mount Etna before our departure given it was bathed in sunshine but, ominously, burping a small trail of smoke. Hopefully it’s not a repeat of the recent chaos that blanketed the region in ash.

The drive south was in two very different environments. The first took us along the hillside through dozens of small villages. Doug did a masterful job of avoiding all the moving and non moving impediments as we twisted up, down and around.

The latter portion was on the motorway across nondescript scrubby land occasionally interrupted by a number of sharply rising ridges. That meant a variety of tunnels, some of them quite lengthy.

We popped out and detoured into the town of Augusta (no not that one). Yes it was a Sunday morning and virtually everything was closed but this is a community that tourists don’t seem to visit. It was as if the renovation and upgrades we’d seen everywhere else simply never happened here. Needless to say our stop was relatively short other than to take a photo of the main church and admire the unique clock – sundial.

Back on the highway to Siracusa and the old town peninsula called Ortigia.

Our fist adventure was finding the B&B amongst the rabbit warren of narrow streets. After a couple of false starts – success. We are literally a few steps from the main piazza.

Per our now normal, after a filling lunch we wandered down to the waterfront and admired the properties that in most cities in the world would be worth millions.

Further on the peninsula comes to an end where the Castello Maniace historically controlled access to the port and the city of Syracuse. Built by Frederick II in the mid 1230’s it played a critical role in how the Siricuans dominated this area for many decades.

Back into town for a hydration break and as dusk fell, a casual stroll through the streets and squares watching the people and enjoying the buskers and sights.

Tomorrow we have a guided walking tour and a harbour boat cruise planned so there will be much to share about the unique city.

We are in a beautiful country inn 32 kms north of Catania on the east coast of Sicily. The landscape is very hilly as we are literally in the shadow of Mount Etna, famous for its eruptions and impact on the local economy.

(If viewing on a phone or tablet tap on a photo to see the full picture).

Salvo, our local guide picked us up and off we went on the hillside narrow, twisty, blind corners, 1.5 lane wide “roads” to start on the journey to Mount Etna. His familiarity with the roads actually meant a stress free ride as we whisked past stone walls and parked cars that would have had us travelling at a crawling pace if one of us was at the wheel.

The road up the mountain is a series of switchbacks and endless turns. The map picture shows just how challenging it is.

The lava flow, most recently in 2011, had created a moonscape on large swaths of the mountain. There were portions of the hillsides that escaped the flow and these were covered by forests of chestnut trees. We also saw scores of people foraging in the woods looking for mushrooms given the soil provided ideal growing conditions.

A quick stop allowed a look at one the caves that provided shelter to long ago generations who harvested ice given the elevation of Etna means annual snowfall of 4-5 metres. Yes, they ski here!

The road up to Rifugio Sapienza allows one to reach approximately 2,000 metres (6,550 feet) in the car. From there you can take a cable car to 2,500 metres or hike one of the many trails and get as high as just over 2,950 metres. We were slightly less ambitious.

Our first trek was to the Silvestri Crater 1892, so named because of the eruption that year that caused its creation. It was an easy walk and provided panoramic views of views down the mountain to the sea.

The clouds and mist rolled in obscuring our view up the mountain so we opted to stick to the relatively short loop up Silvestri Crater Superiore.

The cloud cover became quite heavy so we headed down to what had become a madhouse of big tour buses and thousands of tourists. Darn those tourists, jamming up everything.

Back in the car and down through the sweeping lava fields to a village where a staple of the local economy is making honey and wine. The type of flower pollinated by the bees determines the flavour. We tasted numerous samples and purchased a small jar.

The shop also sold wines they made but sadly the white blend made from Carricante, Cataratto and Minella Bianca grapes and the red blend Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio didn’t measure up.

Onward we rolled further north along the coast to the famous town of Taormina. There are two distinct sections; one along the water’s edge filled with hotels and beaches while the old town is about 250 metres (820 ft) above the sea,

There is a third portion of very steep and almost isolated rock, crowned by a Norman castle a further 150 metres up the mountain.

Not only does the region have to endure Mount Etna’s potential issues but in January 2026 a huge storm created destructive 10 metre high waves that battered the coast.

The town has been a popular tourist destination since the early 19th century and today attracts thousands who wander the old streets. It is a jarring contrast to have shops offering the most expensive, recognizable brands of clothing and jewelry next to a local artisan churning out trinkets.

We shopped. We ate.

Every alleyway either up or down contains restaurants or shops.

And the view from the public park was spectacular.

A long drive back to our Inn ended the day. Whew.

Tomorrow it’s off to Syracuse (Siracusa) for more exploring.

Our last day in Puglia started with an extended breakfast in Bari. Since our flight to Sicily was in the evening we headed north up the coast to Trani, a 45 minute drive.

The entire coastline from Bari north to Barletta is a sea of building cranes. It appears they are constructing multi dwelling 7 – 8 story residences. There is no real gap between the towns on the coast so it’s one continuous community.

This image is at odds with official statistics. While towns experience seasonal tourism boosts and localized commercial investments, permanent residency numbers continue to shrink as younger generations move away for work. Overall the population is aging and birth rates are falling.

Trani is still a very active fishing village with a busy harbour. And, of course, tourists.

Construction of the Romanesque Cathedral of Trani started in 1099 (on top of church ruins dating back to the fifth century) and took nearly 200 years to complete. It has a unique location, directly adjacent to the seawall.

Just a few hundred metres away is the 13th century fort. Neither building was open so no pictures to share.

After a walk on the breakwater and lunch overlooking the harbour it was time to pack up and head to the airport.

The Bari airport was surprisingly busy but the security lines moved very quickly (hilariously we had pre paid to use the express line which was completely empty yet the time taken to get through was the same as everyone else).

Ryanair has a unique colour scheme.

The flight was delayed 30 minutes which meant arriving in Catania in the dark which made the drive to our hotel (35 minutes into the hills) on narrow winding roads all the more challenging. Doug handled it admirably.

Tomorrow we have a guided hike on Mount Etna which will be interesting given its recent eruptions. Another “fingers crossed” moment.

Ostuni is renown for the old town being completely covered in whitewash. Thus it stands out like a beacon on its hilltop looking out over the Adriatic.

(If viewing on a phone or tablet click on a photo to see the full picture).

With limited parking for non residents we had to do our usual and hike up into the old town.

Once there we were greeted by a somewhat familiar labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys.

Some were a little more dramatic than others.

The cathedral (Cathdrale di Santa Maria Assunta) was built in the second half of the 11th century and has gone through many restorations over the centuries. Its most compelling feature are the ceiling paints. One can only marvel at how the artist(s) managed to create such masterpieces above their heads.

The town has many steep sections where creativity reigns such as a cushioned cafe on a series of steps.

The main square was dominated by another column featuring Sant’Oronzo whom we looked out on from our rooms in Lecce.

Coffee while perched on a ledge overlooking the valley and the sea was a nice way to wrap up our visit.

Then it was off to Monopoli, a bustling town along the coast. Along the way we stopped to admire ancient olive trees which may be many centuries old. The region to the south is just recovering from a deadly infestation of a bug thought to have arrived in a shipment of coffee from Costa Rico that killed millions of olive trees so this plantation stood out.

Monopoli overlooks a rocky coastline which provided entertainment as we watched waves crash onto the shore.

Into the old town and into the cathedral per our normal.

Regardless of one’s religious beliefs the beauty, craftsmanship and artistic skills have to be admired.

Then it was back to Bari along a winding coastal road before joining the main highway into town. Tomorrow it’s off to Sicily with a flight from Bari to Catania. The airport there has suffered a number of closures recently due to ash deposits from the eruptions of Mount Etna which is a few miles away. Fingers crossed.

A lazy start to the morning with coffee and breakfast on the square outside our B&B. Very civilized although apparently Italians don’t drink a second cup of coffee, especially midsized Americano’s. Our request was met with quizzical looks.

Into the car for the one hour drive to Otranto on the south east coast. This time highways only and no stone walls.

Otranto has a violent past since its inception nearly two thousand years ago. Its strategic location close to the south eastern tip of Italy meant it was a prized possession for various empires, raiders and other armies seeking control of shipping lanes and as an entry point to the Italian mainland. The Greeks, Ottoman Empire, Romans, Byzantine and others have all conquered and occupied this region and all have subsequently been repulsed. War and religious persecution have coexisted forever here.

Today the city is a beautiful tourist attraction with beaches, a large marina and a wonderful old town of winding streets.

(if viewing on a phone or tablet click on a photo to get the full picture).

We chose to follow a small section of the coastal hiking trail that took us along the shoreline heading south.

Our turn around point was the Torre del Serpe (Serpent’s Tower), a ruined cylindrical stone watchtower perched on a promontory overlooking the Adriatic Sea.

Its precise origin is debated, with roots possibly tracing back to a Roman oil lighthouse or a medieval structure before it became part of the 16th-century coastal watchtower defense network.

Back to the town – a round trip of about 5 kms. As per normal the old portion of the town was somewhat elevated.

The cathedral (Basilica Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata) was built in the 11th century. The entire floor is covered by a mosaic that was created between 1163 and 1165 by the monk Pantaleon. It depicts the Tree of Life alongside biblical scenes, mythology, the zodiac, and historical figures.

The ceiling is equally impressive.

Otranto is also infamous for a horrific incident in 1840 when 813 inhabitants were beheaded by invading Ottoman forces for refusing to renounce the Christian faith. Reminders of these martyrs appear throughout the town.

Back to Lecce for a rest and some retail therapy for the ladies who, shockingly, chose the same sweater as the latest must have.

Dinner on the square – something about eating outside on a warm evening with the buzz of activity going on around us is very refreshing.

And, of course, a visit to the local ice cream shop to end the evening.

Tomorrow we head back to Bari with planned stops in Ostuni and Monopoli.

We left Abate Masseria and headed south east towards the coast on our way to Lecce. Our intermediate goal was a dairy farm famous for its cheese products.

Getting there required navigating narrow country roads with the inevitable stone walls.

(If viewing on a phone or tablet click on photo to see full picture).

Along the way we saw hundreds of tulli that appeared to be recently constructed and fully fledged homes. Curious given the building options available.

Masseria Seppunisi (turns out Masseria means a traditional fortified farmhouse estate native to southern Italy) is a dairy farm-cheese factory near Ostuni. In order to experience (and taste) the cheese making process we first had to understand dairy farming.

Home to a herd of 300 Holsteins, we were introduced to the basics of dairy farming. The first and most important step was putting on booties before starting the tour.

Our host, Fabio, explained the entire life cycle of the cows, the breeding process, milking, milk output and the subsequent movement of milk to the adjacent cheese factory. Knowing none of the above, it was a very interesting lesson of a critical component of farming that we take for granted. Also, having Doug at hand was extremely valuable as he grew up on a dairy farm and filled in any gaps.

Despite only 1/3 of milk production going to cheese making with the balance being sold to other farms and retailers, cheese is where Seppunisi makes its mark.

The owner, Guiseppe, demonstrated the simple yet elegant process of mixing curds with hot water and salt to create mozzarella.

He then pinched off small pieces in different shapes including Burrata (a mozzarella ball with Stracciatella – shredded moist mozzarella – inside).

Then the most important part – tasting.

We were invited to give it a try and the results weren’t bad.

The real pros work a slightly different volume.

Which results in an aging room full of options.

Then it was lunchtime, highlighted, of course by cheese made that morning.

Back into the car and off to Lecce, our home for the next two days.

Lecce is near the tip of the heel of the Italian boot, 11 kms from the Adriatic Sea.

Because of its Baroque architecture Lecce is nicknamed “The Florence of the South”. Lecce stone”, a particular kind of limestone is one of the main exports of the city. It is very soft and workable, thus suitable for sculptures. Lecce is also an important agricultural centre, chiefly for its olive oil and wine production.

It is also known as the city of churches as there are about 20 significant baroque churches within a few minutes’ walk of Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The most significant is the Basilica of the Holy Cross. The baroque style of decorative carvings is on full display.

We joined a walking tour and it seemed history and another “wow” was around every corner.

A chance discovery during a routine maintenance project uncovered a Roman amphitheater in the heart of the old town.

We had the (almost lost) art of paper mache explained and displayed – almost unbelievable that the sculptures are made of paper given the intricate detail.

Back to our B&B to finish our wine supply (including additional inventory) before a dinner on the square.

Tomorrow exploring Otronto including a hike along the coast.

Matera is a city in the provincial region of Basilicata one hour west of Martina Franca. Its tourist notoriety is due the Sassi area, a complex of cave dwellings carved into the mountainside that were inhabited until the early 1950s.

The central high ground housing the city’s cathedral and administrative buildings, came to be known as Civita, and the settlement districts scaling down and burrowing into the sheer rock faces as the Sassi (from Latin saxum meaning a hill, rock).

The Sassi are houses dug into the rock itself, which is locally called “tufo”. It’s difficult to convey the density of the town as the streets in some parts often run on top of other houses.

(If viewing on a phone tap a photo to see the full image).

In fact, one guidebook warned of the very real possibility of getting lost in the warren of narrow lanes notwithstanding access to GPS and paper maps.

We met our tour guide and start walking down from the Civita towards the northern slope Sasso Barisano (facing Bari). Our guide described the evolution of the community from ancient times to the present.

The Civita and the two Sassi, relatively isolated from each other, survived until the sixteenth century, when the centre of public life moved outside the walls to the Piazza Sedile in the open plain (the Piano). By the end of the eighteenth century, the geographic elevation became more than just a physical boundary and separated the peasants of the Sassi and the elite to the point where the two communities no longer interacted socially.

The Sassi consist of approximately twelve levels descending about 380 metres connected by a network of paths, stairways, and courtyards. While we walked down somewhat our path was more around the edges of the Sassi.

We learned about the novel method of rainwater collection in cisterns that fed others lower down the slope.

It’s difficult to describe the abject poverty that existed in the Sassi. Families shared tiny living quarters with farm animals. Poor sanitation meant high levels of disease and infant mortality.

Yet it was only at the turn of the twentieth century that the Sassi were declared unfit for habitation with government mandating that all inhabitants move to new housing in the Piano. It took until 1952 to start the process which was completed by 1970s.

Perversely, in 1986 the law was amended to permit restoration and reoccupation of the Sassi, for the benefit of the wealthy. In 1993 the Sassi were recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Today property values are soaring amid high demand.

We finished our walk looking over the canyon that provided a natural defense for the city before heading back up through the southern Sassi Caveoso.

After the official tour we went on our own wander and disregarding all advice, plunged straight down into the heart of the Sassi. Our goal was the cathedral on the far side of town (the tower in the distance).

Through the intrepid guiding by Mo and Louise we made it. And it was worth the hike. The cathedral was incredibly ornate but had a wonderfully decorated ceiling.

All the hiking up, down and around meant rehydration was essential.

To end our day we drove out of Matera to the other side of the canyon to look back at the city. Although the sun was facing us and creating shadows it was still an impressive view.

Back to Abate Masseria for one more night then it’s off to Lecce with a special stop along the way.