Saint-Emilion

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As the Old Course in Scotland is to golf, one might consider Saint-Emilion one of the centers of the wine universe. Being east of the Dordogne River, it is part of the Right Bank of the Bordeaux region.

After a solid first night on board the barge we set off in the van under a blistering hot sun and absolutely cloudless, hard blue sky for the 45 minute drive north. Rule one of embarking on a day of wine tasting – have the host drive! Our route traversed mile after mile of vineyards. In all directions as far as one could see, field after field of vines.

Saint-Emilion is both a region and a town. The region contains eight towns, 13,000 acres under cultivation and 800 wineries. Unlike its equally famous neighbours on the left bank of the Garonne River, the classification of wineries is much simpler, started 100 years later (1955) and is updated every 10 years.

There are four levels in the Saint-Emilion classification system: Premier Grand Cru Classe A (2 wineries), Premier Grand Grand Cru Classe B (12), Grand Cru Classe (65) and Grand Cru (hundreds). Despite our best efforts we managed to experience “only” 13 different vintages during the day.

First stop, Chateau Grangey, a small (8,000 – 15,000 bottle) producer.

Our host took us in amongst the vines and explained the different grape varieties and farming techniques.

We moved indoors and learned the sequence of field to bottle including the impact of barreling and time.

Then on to the matter at hand. Tasting!

After tasting five solid pours we all agreed the limestone influenced, Merlot dominated wines of Saint Emilion lived up to their reputation.

Back in the van for a quick trip into the town of Saint-Emilion itself. Built on a limestone plateau the stone was quarried extensively for centuries resulting in nearly 100 kms of galleries on four superimposed levels underneath the entire town. Meanwhile, above ground……..

Lunch was superb and presented another opportunity to taste different wines. Because white wines are not produced in the region we were “forced” to try an “import” from the Graves region south of Bordeaux while the red was a very sold local product. Both two thumbs up!

After lunch we had a chance to wander the town which lead to Mo having a retail moment.

Off again into the breech for more tasting at a wine distributor in the town. Our young host took great pride in giving us a real cross section of wines that teased our olfactory and taste senses to the max.

We so enjoyed the wine an 18 bottle case of different vintages split equally amongst the three couples will be winging its way to North America.

Somehow we managed to wobble our way back to the van at the end of the afternoon and headed back to the barge where a rest period helped.

Then of course, we were treated to another Michelin star worthy dinner. The photos on the website (saintlouisbarge.com) under the culinary heading do reflect the creativity we’re enjoying.

Tomorrow we will cruise along the canal for four hours before doing another overland trip into the afternoon, this time to the Sauterne region.