Who says you can’t enjoy a nonstop day involving four eclectic activities? We packed up and left Bari mid morning heading south to Alberobello and our first stop, the Abbracciavento family olive oil factory.
(If viewing on a phone tap a picture to see the full image)
We managed to sneak in a private visit between tour bus arrivals. Started in 1966 this Oleificio (oil factory) processes staggering amounts of olives producing tons of extra virgin oil.
Purchasing fruit from hundreds of farms, the manufacturing process runs 24/7 during the months of October to mid December. The method and machinery are fairly simple. Crush the olives, make a paste, centrifuge the paste to separate oil and water, filter the oil and package it.
To be considered extra virgin, the oil must contain less than 0.8% oleic acid per 100 grams of oil. The Abbracciavento’s produce at 0.4% by using a single type of olive. A second run mixing multiple olive types results in an output with a higher acidity. The former is for salads, the latter for cooking. Even the residual paste is not wasted as it is used in the manufacture of soaps and cosmetics.
Our visit ending eating fresh figs plucked from a tree beside the factory. Delicious from start to finish.
Back in the car and in to Alberobello proper to see the trulli houses. These conical shaped limestone dwellings are made without using mortar. The technique and form date back thousands of years but came to the fore in this area of Italy in the mid 14th century and today there are over 1500 such structures in the city.
From temporary field shelters and storehouses to dwellings to tourist attractions housing retailers and residents their unique construction has stood the test of time.
There was more to Alberobello than just the trulli houses as tourists begat markets and entertainment. The local band shell was hopping and the wares on display, impressive.
Lunch on a steeply sloped sidewalk/street, where we also battled the stiff breeze, fortified us to head off to our next stop, wine tasting.
Into the car and off to the Girolama winery and vineyards. The family started its winery in 2001 and over the years and a second generation has grown to be a major producer.
We started with a group tour and descended into the cellars that were dug to 18 metres thus providing an ideal barreling climate.
The wines utlize the primary grapes of the Puglia region (Negromaro, Primativo, Verdeca, Aglianico) but the proprietor also imported vines from France thus producing Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
We signed up for the four wines tasting but became close friends with our hostess Marta and somehow ended up imbibing eight different varietals.
All of the choices were excellent and as a group we agreed to disagree on individual favourites. So in the end we purchased six bottles which will have to be consumed prior to our departure for Sicily given our carry on bags only situation. I don’t see that being a problem.
Three activities down it was time to check in to the Abate Masseri resort south of Noci. Quick in and out then it was off to the Grotta de Trullo on the outskirts of Putignano.
Wow! This massive cave system is one of many hundreds in the area but stands apart for its size and extraordinary rock formations. While the locals knew of its existence none ventured into the opening believing it was the actual portal to Hell.
In 1931 municipal workers uncovered a large opening into which a professional caver descended. It took two years to map the entire underground complex and another 15 years to create a system of paths that allowed non cavers to visit.
The initial descent is via a staircase which leads to a massive cavern and from there a large fissure provides a pathway deeper into the earth.
Around every turn were more intriguing rock formations.
At our deepest we were 72 metres underground and walked a one Km loop. A longer, deeper option was available but we opted against it given it was now early evening and we’d had a busy day.
Fortunately an elevator had been constructed at the periphery of the main cavern so we avoided a long hike back to the surface. Priceless.
It was dark when we got back to the hotel so it was time to dig into our wine supply and then turn in. Tomorrow it’s back on the bike but this time a cross country ride to visit various towns.
