Today was a day of rest from the hiking tour but just so happened to occur in Queenstown, the adventure capital of NZ. There’s numerous activities one can choose: jet boats, mountain biking, zip lining, luge from the terminal at the top of the gondola and so on. One sport stands out, however, given it was invented, as a commercial going concern, by two NZ’ers in 1986. Bungee jumping off the Kawarau bridge outside Queenstown has become world renown. So of course we signed up.

We spent a portion of the morning wandering along the harbour enjoying the weekly craft fair trying not to spend too much time thinking about the jump. Would we? Could we? Heck it’s only 145 feet off a bridge over a river in a canyon. What possibly could go wrong?

The bridge is 25 minutes out of town so having been weighed, identified with markings on our hands (body recovery purposes?) and signing various waivers at the office in town it was onto yet another bus. The bus drivers’ warped sense of humour was evident as he played “Another Bites The Dust” over the PA.

The operation at the bridge was a well oiled machine and in no time we were front and center being told to empty our pockets and sit calmly while the harness and ankle wrapping was very, very firmly attached. The call to the jumping ledge was made and any thoughts of turning back had to be banished. Given the ankle harness one has to shuffle to the edge. Rock music blaring (to muffle potential screaming?) and young jump assistants casually moving around without a care added to the surreal atmosphere. Then it was arms up to effect a swan dive, 3, 2, 1 GOOOOOO. And shockingly, we did! Mo and Mark were joined by Liz Monson, one of the tour members, as we each completed perhaps the biggest leap of faith ever.

Once the bouncing stopped a small boat arrived to pull the jumper to safety. Can you see the relief in Mo’s face?

It was heart-stopping, exhausting, exhilarating, and reflectively, well worth it. As they say, been there, done that, got the tee shirt.

We finished our day of rest by taking the Gondola up above Queenstown where Mo and Liz raced small carts down the luge run multiple times. The view over the town and lake was beautiful as our run of hot sunny days continues.

Tomorrow it’s back to work as we’re off to Wanaka to hike the Rocky Mountain track with the reward of a winery visit later in the afternoon.

A long time travel bucket list item was checked today as we cruised on Milford Sound in Fiordland national park. As there is virtually only the marina at the end of the single road in, one must drive in from Te Anau, about two hours away. Even the trip to the sound was special.

We had to pass through the 1.3 km Homer tunnel which is a one lane, very rough cut through the mountains. Completed in 1953, it doesn’t appear anything has changed.

Finally at the terminus it was a relief to see relatively few people waiting. We were the first sailing of the morning which proved fortuitous as we had the top deck outside space basically to ourselves. Prepared for crisp weather it was layers on, hats and gloves at the ready. Given the steepness of the canyon walls, the sun didn’t penetrate the entire sound at first.

Breathtaking (has that word be overused?) views in every direction.

We traveled nearly 15 Kms and made an about turn near the point where the sound becomes the Tasman Sea.

On the journey back the clouds rolled in briefly which only enhanced the view.

When we returned to the terminal it was very crowded as numerous boats were set to depart. Perfect timing for our departure back down the valley to visit the Te Anau bird sanctuary.

The list of NZ birds distinct to the islands is extensive and the small sanctuary has at least one major feather in its cap (sorry) by playing an important role in the growth of the Takahe population. This flightless bird was thought to be extinct but it’s numbers have been modestly revived thanks, in part, to the sanctuary.

A variety of other birds were on display but proved to be camera shy. A quick, late picnic lunch and it was back on the bus and off to Queenstown.

Queenstown is described as the adventure capital of NZ. It’s a relatively small community (~12,000) but the population explodes with tourists in both winter and summer. It’s like a small village with everything packed into a central area offering numerous bar, restaurant and retail shops. The place is hopping.

Our introduction was a wander down by the lake, through the crowded outdoor bar scene stopping to enjoy ice cream (world class). Tomorrow is a free day from the tour so, being of sound mind and body, we signed up to go BUNGEE JUMPING at the site of the sports originator off a 43m (145 foot) bridge. Hopefully we’ll be back to continue the blog thereafter. There will be online video regardless. Fingers crossed.

Our morning hike took place on the Kepler track along the Waiau River connecting Lake Manapouri and Lake Te Anau. An incredibly well maintained track through a mature beech forest was just the tonic we needed.

It was hiking at it it’s gentle finest. A soft underbrush path with very little grade change meant no poles and a chance to look up and around for just under three hours.

Unfortunately, however, even the slightest descent brought a sharp and immediate reminder from both quads and calfs of the abuse they had endured over the past 48 hours. It would be embarrassing except all members of the tour (and most are avid hikers, cyclists, outdoors lifestyle keeners) are suffering to some degree.

Notwithstanding the intermittent grimace, the setting provided an incredibly tranquil morning allowing for reflection and contemplation of life’s what ifs. The silence was powerful and only interrupted when the track came close to the river where the water alternated between languid and frothy, noisy rapids.

The ground cover added to the mystic as ferns abounded and moss grew on fallen trees giving them animal like shapes.

We finished the hike with a picnic lunch overlooking the river. A great morning indeed.

Then it was back into the van for a 60 minute drive up the highway towards Milford Sound. The Routeburn track was certainly not a repeat of the mornings effort.

Another one of those “looks basic on the map” but then has just enough bite to grab your attention. At least the trail builders had the kindness to create numerous switchbacks to lessen the incline. Upward, ever upward we went on a rocky track that had a few challenging moments.

It did get harder

There were distractions along the way.

But finally at the top the discomfort went away and a special vista spread out before us.

What goes up must come down so the tired, sore legs were really put to the test going downhill. We did get a small respite by taking an alternate route across a wet area but then it was down, down ,down.

Back at the van it was agreed it had been a great day. Nearly 6 1/2 hours of hiking in glorious weather, a great balance between the two trails and wonderful sights along the way.

Tomorrow it’s off to Milford Sound to catch the boat that will take us out to the Tasman Ocean and back.

A day of two halves. We gingerly hobbled onto the bus still feeling the effects of yesterday’s hike. The morning segment consisted of a bike ride along the shore of lake Pukaki to Twizel covering 24 Kms on an undulating track.

Although the route is called alps to ocean this segment was neither. The bikes were top class with great suspension and one finger gear leavers. Only issue was ‘down here’, the back wheel brake lever is on the left. That required some quick thinking at times.

The lake was spectacular and the flowers were in full bloom.

As much as yesterday was about tender knees today quickly became about quaking quads. Nothing like a few hours in the saddle to make your legs turn to jelly. Stairs and getting back on the bus are proving to be major challenges. The group groaning and occasional shuffling is quite comical. But back on the bus we clambered and headed off to Te Anau.

Te Anau is the jumping off point to the Fiordland national park, NZ’s largest, and the site of many great hiking trails plus Milford Sound. We stopped in Cornwall for a late lunch as the topography and weather changed dramatically. Barren hills, low clouds and wind made us thankful we’d done our bike ride earlier.

The drive took us of Linda’s Pass with its incredibly narrow twisting road (glad I wasn’t driving the van) and past Lake Dunstan. Then it was out into the wide valleys again and into the Mossman region, home of the largest deer farms in the country. Of course along the way we saw a million sheep.

We passed many vineyards and wineries as this area is famous for its pinot noir but our schedule didn’t permit a tour and tasting.

Finally into Te Anua and it’s bustling tourist filled center. An Epson salt bath helped ease the aching muscles at least temporarily. After a great group dinner we got tomorrow’s briefing – two hikes totaling 20 Kms up in the mountains. Onward!

Be careful what you wish for. Our first hike appeared to be a rather benign effort part way up Sealy Mountain which is across the valley from Mount Cook. Little did we know. We (shamefully) took the van from Aoraki Mount Cook village to the White Horse Hill campground (10 minutes). Then it was backpacks on and we’re off.

Ah…. it was not benign. Nearly five hours, too many thousand steps to count, throbbing knees but a great sense of satisfaction later we returned to base camp. Who knew they could cut a track up a mountain sloped at 30-40 degrees. And not a traversing route but rather, straight up! The trail encompassed thousands of steps cut into the mountain supported by wooden and stone risers. It would have been impossible otherwise.

Our goal was a mid station called Sealy Tarns. Much further on was the Mueller hut for the uber serious (far beyond our skills and equipment). Although the primary view was of one’s shoe tops every rest or water break afforded spectacular vistas.

The hike down was challenging but we made it. The last 3 Kms on the Kea Point track back to the village was through meadows full of song birds and flowers. Priceless.

Tomorrow we test our cycling skills in an alps to ocean ride. Double yikes.

Kia Oro or welcome. Our tour of the South Island took a bit of a twist today as we met our travel mates and guides. We were designated the south bound group meaning our route would be clockwise round the island. Initially we were to head north but the other segment of the tour group went that way. We are 14 travellers (5 Canadians & 7 Americans) plus two young female guides, Nicola and Broghan. We’re in a 18 person van pulling a luggage trailer so there’s sufficient room and relative comfort. That’s important because today was a van day and no hiking. From Christchurch we traversed the Canterbury plains through the foothills and into the Mackenzie basin on our way to Mount Cook in the southern alps.

The Canterbury plains is dominated by cattle ranches which are expanding annually at the expense of sheep farming due to economics. There were still, however, thousands of sheep along the way. The vista was fairly brown and barren and stretched endlessly in all directions.

Turning off the main highway towards the foothills meant a slight change of scenery, more greenery (and many more sheep).

Deeper into the Mackenzie basin we came upon Lake Tekapo which was a wonderful combination of colours framed by the southern alps in the distance.

We then turn onto the solitary road leading to the Mount Cook national park. It ran alongside Lake Pukaki which also displayed various greens and teal sections. These lakes form the basis of a major hydroelectric system providing electricity to a significant portion of the southern part of the South Island.

Climbing up the valley brought us closer to Mount Cook, the tallest peak in NZ (12,218 feet). And finally we arrived at our destination, literally a stones throw from the mountain. Breathtaking.

Tomorrow we hike! Yikes.

Today was supposed to be a rest and recover day given the travel odyssey to get here. Ha! Hours of walking and thousands of steps later we’ve seen much of central Christchurch.

Christchurch is NZ’s second largest city (~400,000) and is a mix of the old and modern. Sadly a number of the latter buildings were built after a devastating earthquake in 2011. Construction abounds in the city centre with the Cathedral restoration being centre stage. Fingers crossed that the nearby tectonic major fault line remains stable for the foreseeable future.

The downtown core is a neat combination of stores and restaurants with the the highlight being the Riverside market that houses dozens of food vendors covering many of the globe’s core offerings. You could graze in there for day’s without repeating your meals.

Christchurch water supplies are rated among the purest and cleanest in the world. Untreated, naturally filtered water is sourced from aquifers emanating from the foothills of the Southern Alps. Not sure if it’s directly linked but the local coffee is outstanding!

Our walk took us along the Avon river into the very large Hagley Park. That led us to the botanical garden with its amazing assortment of trees, plants and flowers. The colours and scents were spectacular. The wooded area, with species imported from around the world, was eclectic including palms, maple and our favorite, the monkey puzzle from Chile.

Our walk was capped off by wandering through the rose garden with its 174 (!) varieties. Jaw dropping.

The sun is shining, the temperature is up and the forecast is good for at least the start of our hiking tomorrow We will learn the answer to all sorts of questions regarding the other hikers, our guides and our fitness. Wish us luck.

New Zealand is 18 hours ahead of the eastern time zone of Canada and the US. If it’s 4 p.m. Friday in Toronto, it’s 10 a.m. Saturday in Auckland. Oddly ones circadian rhythms don’t become too out of whack because you leave North America in the early evening and land early in the morning (albeit having lost a day to the international date line). We left our home in Toronto late Thursday morning and landed in Auckland early on Saturday morning. Then it was another 90 minute flight to Christchurch on the South Island. Regardless of all the time zones we’ve been on the move for 29+ hours including 21 in the air. We were buoyed by the knowledge provided by Air Tags that our luggage actually accompanied us all the way. So we’re here but exhausted. Thank goodness we have Sunday to explore Christchurch before meeting the tour group on Monday morning. Then the real fun(?) begins with the start of “the hike”.

We’re off on our next adventure to test our fitness and endurance by hiking (and biking & kayaking) around New Zealand’s south island. From glaciers to pristine fjords to spectacular views from different mountaintops we look forward to sharing the sights. We’ll finish our holiday by seeing unique attractions on the north island from our base in Auckland including cave rafting, wine tasting and e-biking. There may even be time for a round of golf! Stay tuned for daily updates starting January 7th of the wonders of nature in one of the world’s most scenic settings.

Did you know that New Zealand is comprised of over 700 islands although the “North” and “South” islands make up 96% of the land mass. Approximately 5.3 million people live there and there are a lot of sheep (various numbers but at least 25 million). New Zealand is further south than South Africa and is the third closest country to Antarctica (Chile & Argentina). A round trip from Toronto to Christchurch by air is nearly 30,000 kilometers. Conditions vary sharply across the regions we’ll be visiting from extremely wet on the west coast of the South Island to glaciers to semi arid inland and sub tropical in Northland. As you can imagine, packing the correct gear is critical. Fingers crossed we get it right.

Packing up today to head back to Punta Arenas and then on to Santiago where we will spend Saturday before flying home. The speed with which the weather can change was evident as a burst of golden sunrise gave way to grey and rain. Thank goodness we had our final big hike yesterday.

Onto the bus for the five hour trip with a stop in Puerto Natales for souvenirs and our first WiFi in nearly a week. So the world didn’t end apparently. Back to civilization actually was interesting as we’d become quite used to the all encompassing natural world. There’s a lot to like on “that side”.

Arriving in Santiago after midnight, following the 3 1/2 flight, was even more of a shock. Thousands of people, even at that hour, concrete everywhere, diesel fumes etc. Conversely, our hotel was quite luxurious hence the conflicting feelings.

Saturday in Santiago was spent touring the Museum of Human Rights which provided an in-depth chronology of the 1973 coup and 17 years of military rule with its abuses and tragedies. Well worth the visit.

One last meal at an eclectically decorated restaurant before going back to the airport with the Peggs heading directly to Toronto and the Bennetts to Miami where our car awaits for the semi quick drive to Palmira.

So many stories, memories, photos and first time experiences. Can’t wait to get planning our next adventure.