We are in a beautiful country inn 32 kms north of Catania on the east coast of Sicily. The landscape is very hilly as we are literally in the shadow of Mount Etna, famous for its eruptions and impact on the local economy.
(If viewing on a phone or tablet tap on a photo to see the full picture).
Salvo, our local guide picked us up and off we went on the hillside narrow, twisty, blind corners, 1.5 lane wide “roads” to start on the journey to Mount Etna. His familiarity with the roads actually meant a stress free ride as we whisked past stone walls and parked cars that would have had us travelling at a crawling pace if one of us was at the wheel.
The road up the mountain is a series of switchbacks and endless turns. The map picture shows just how challenging it is.
The lava flow, most recently in 2011, had created a moonscape on large swaths of the mountain. There were portions of the hillsides that escaped the flow and these were covered by forests of chestnut trees. We also saw scores of people foraging in the woods looking for mushrooms given the soil provided ideal growing conditions.
A quick stop allowed a look at one the caves that provided shelter to long ago generations who harvested ice given the elevation of Etna means annual snowfall of 4-5 metres. Yes, they ski here!
The road up to Rifugio Sapienza allows one to reach approximately 2,000 metres (6,550 feet) in the car. From there you can take a cable car to 2,500 metres or hike one of the many trails and get as high as just over 2,950 metres. We were slightly less ambitious.
Our first trek was to the Silvestri Crater 1892, so named because of the eruption that year that caused its creation. It was an easy walk and provided panoramic views of views down the mountain to the sea.
The clouds and mist rolled in obscuring our view up the mountain so we opted to stick to the relatively short loop up Silvestri Crater Superiore.
The cloud cover became quite heavy so we headed down to what had become a madhouse of big tour buses and thousands of tourists. Darn those tourists, jamming up everything.
Back in the car and down through the sweeping lava fields to a village where a staple of the local economy is making honey and wine. The type of flower pollinated by the bees determines the flavour. We tasted numerous samples and purchased a small jar.
The shop also sold wines they made but sadly the white blend made from Carricante, Cataratto and Minella Bianca grapes and the red blend Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio didn’t measure up.
Onward we rolled further north along the coast to the famous town of Taormina. There are two distinct sections; one along the water’s edge filled with hotels and beaches while the old town is about 250 metres (820 ft) above the sea,
There is a third portion of very steep and almost isolated rock, crowned by a Norman castle a further 150 metres up the mountain.
Not only does the region have to endure Mount Etna’s potential issues but in January 2026 a huge storm created destructive 10 metre high waves that battered the coast.
The town has been a popular tourist destination since the early 19th century and today attracts thousands who wander the old streets. It is a jarring contrast to have shops offering the most expensive, recognizable brands of clothing and jewelry next to a local artisan churning out trinkets.
We shopped. We ate.
Every alleyway either up or down contains restaurants or shops.
And the view from the public park was spectacular.
A long drive back to our Inn ended the day. Whew.
Tomorrow it’s off to Syracuse (Siracusa) for more exploring.
