The Towers January 16th

If you Google Torres del Paine, the Chilean national park in the Patagonia region, it will likely show the three spire mountains known as The Towers. Our adventure today is to hike as close as possible to the eastern base of this famous landmark. Our guide has prepared us with a schedule that shows 10 hours of hiking, an elevation change of 4,000 feet (round trip), the body position one has to assume in the case of high wind gusts and the possibility that clouds will shroud the mountains meaning zero visibility after all our efforts to get there. Oh yeah!

Among the many internationally renown trails here in Patagonia are the “W” route (4-5 days) and the Big Circuit (9-10 days). Our hike is from the Eco Camp (yeah no bus ride) by the Central, over to the eastern leg of the “W” and up through Chileno (a hikers way station) to the Towers.

The route started gently for 30 minutes then ascended 1,100 feet over the next hour. Loose shale, dirt path minimal impediments, and a medium angle of only a few degrees – hey this isn’t so bad.

From there it was slightly downhill before we entered a forest. Various sections of the trail were more difficult but overall the group’s mood was very positive. The river below us in the valley thundered along. Combined with the whistling wind in the trees it was quite a symphony.

As we climbed, so did the river highlights. Numerous streams meant hopping across rocks, logs and sketchy looking bridges. We crossed the main river a couple of times as well and the waterfalls were spectacular. At the mid point is Windy Pass where the weather can dictate going forward or retreating. Winds over 150 Km/hr have been recorded here. Fortunately it was only a breezy day so on we went.

After the 1 1/2 hour forest section the real climbing started. This final segment took us up another 900 vertical feet. First was up a mostly dry river bed filled with boulders with an average incline of about 20-25 degrees. Very slow going is overstating our pace. We emerged onto a rock fall with a twisting route that required total focus. It continued upwards, teasing us as the Towers were hidden behind a ridge. Fortunately the sun was shining, the wind was moderate and the number of other hikers minimal.

Finally we crested the last ridge and a huge surprise greeted us. There is a turquoise lagoon at the base of the mountains. It is the result of the glacier melting so good news, bad news. Estimates are that in less than 35 years the glacier will be gone and with it, the water source for the lagoon.

We stayed a short time as the 4-5 hour hike down awaited and the wind was up. Plus the popularity of this trail is such that the number of hikers overwhelms the pathway. Unfortunately we experienced such a problem and had to stand aside as multiple groups made their way up the final section. This dissipated lower down and we tromped on unimpeded.

As the miles passed the joints started to complain louder and louder. The pace ebbed and flowed. The cruelest irony was the final stage back to the Eco Camp. It came into view as we reached the valley but was actually 3 kms away and up on a plateau. We made it but only barely. Everyone is stiff and sore to varying degrees but there is a real sense of accomplishment in having conquered such an extreme hike.