Peru – A Tale of Opposites

Our first day in Peru was a tale of opposites. Lima, a chaotic mass of 9M inhabitants, offers the craziness of free for all traffic on roads full of massive potholes. Unfinished buildings abound (apparently that’s a tax advantage) and the sanitation department is obviously underfunded. Once we got on to the highway heading south, the world changed. Total desolation with miles of sandstone brown desert stretching to the horizon. For three days prior to joining the tour group we’re travelling with Doug & Louise Pegg, who have been great friends for decades.

Our trip south to the desert was interrupted twice by police roadblocks. The first got a little testy when a fine for not having the headlights on (on a divided highway in the blazing midday sun!) was threatened. After a bit of pushback (thanks Google translator) we were “released”, wallets intact. The second stop was more amiable and after a quick documents check we continued. The terrain is incredibly rugged yet full of partially completed or proposed developments that appear abandoned. Great beaches stood completely empty. At times I was reminded of the Nile valley as the limited agricultural swath was very narrow and ended sharply at the edge of the desert. It’s a harsh environment with a tiny population, very unlike the capital. We lunched in Paracas which is described as the Oregon coast without the trees, grass or people. Given it is late Autumn here the tourists have left and the calmness versus Lima was dramatic.

On to Ica and a lovely modern resort before exploring the Huacachina oasis and sand dunes 10 Kms away. The dunes are staggeringly large and stretch for miles. Climbing part way up one ridge line was challenging enough. We’re planning to return tomorrow to go sand boarding and taking a dune buggy ride.  Fortunately we caught the sunset to end our day.

A great day one.