Abu Simbel

Uggggh. The alarm went off at 3:45 a.m. in order that the bus was loaded and in the convey line for the 280 km drive to Abu Simbel by 5. We head due south from Aswan across what one thinks of as ‘the desert’. Nothing but sand as far as the eye could see in all directions. Simply a ribbon of black asphalt stretching to the horizon. At least our early start allowed us to enjoy a brilliant sunrise.

The concept of a bus convey is for security reasons given Abu Simbel is near the Sudan border and an incident from a few years ago targeting a tour bus has not been forgotten. The convey’s value was lost in the first 25 kms as soon there were no other vehicles in sight.

Abu Simbel is the site of the famous Ramses II temple and the adjacent temple of Hathor, honouring his favourite wife Nefertari (not Nefretiti who was married to another of the Ramses’ clan). What makes these sites extra special is the fact they were dismantled in the 1960’s and moved to accommodate the creation of Lake Nasser which resulted from the construction of the High Dam at Aswan. Had they not been relocated the temples would be 200 m under water. The on-site museum showed a series of story boards describing the challenges of the reconstruction which included building two new ‘mountains’ into which the temples were placed. Amazing stuff.

The interiors of each temple are festooned with now recognizable stories of different gods and the offerings made to them. While certainly not conversant in hieroglyphics, after five days of “lessons” we are able to string together different symbols in the carvings to make some semblance of a story.

After a relatively short visit it was back on the bus and back into the desert for three hours to return to Aswan before the true heat of the day arrived. HA! Part way home we stopped at the one facility out there and saw mirages swirling across the sand. Unimaginable to think of crossing the desert in anything other than an air conditioned vehicle.

Now ensconced on our cruise boat for the next three days we can finally unpack and enjoy the tranquility of the Nile itself (although rumour has it there’s a belly dancing exhibition tonight with likely participation from the audience – hmmmm).