Editor’s Note: tap on the thumbnail pictures to see the full shot.

Our lucky weather charm continued today as not only didn’t it rain, the seas were calm as well. In the past three weeks either heavy rain or rough seas were the order of the day so another bullet dodged.

The marina is a 15 minute walk away so we out of the hotel just after 7:00. The humidity had dropped overnight and merely registered seriously uggghhhh!

We had chosen Ocean Freedom GBR Tours because it offered snorkeling (yes) and scuba diving (not for us this time) on a midsize boat and its appointed anchorage was straight off the coast from Cairns.

Along with 48 other holidayers and 10 crew, we headed out to sea for the one hour trip to the dive site. Cue the Gilligan’s Island theme song although our tour was scheduled for eight hours in total.

The sun was already beating down so we quickly secured space on the top deck to maximize the effect of the wind. Oh, and you can never apply too much sunscreen when traveling this close to the equator!

The portion of the reef we went to is 16 Kms (10 miles) offshore and is probably amongst the closest to Cairns. As noted previously, the reef is massive. It’s composed of over 2,900 individual reefs and 900 islands stretching for over 2,300 kilometres (1,400 mi) over an area of approximately 344,400 square kilometres (133,000 sq mi).

Safety lecture done it was into anti jellyfish suits and geared up with the necessary snorkeling equipment. Our first swim lasted about an hour and is difficult to describe without pictures (we didn’t bring the underwater go pro). Image a densely packed forest with all manner of trees, plants, scrub, bushes, rocks, etc. Thats the reef except it’s all coral. Different shapes, colours, sizes, and like a forest with animals, home to hundreds of different species of fish. It was spectacular.

Recent storms had stirred up the ocean but it was still clear enough to see everything. Occasionally schools of fish would join you just below the surface while others buzzed about in the coral. Literally a colourful aquarium just beneath you.

Some down time on the boat, a buffet lunch and then more snorkeling over a different section of the reef. Again, special.

Back on board we had to figure out how to get out of the suits that were now plastered to our bodies.

Our trip back to Cairns was interrupted by the crew doing a mock man overboard drill – successfully thank goodness.

We traipsed back to our hotel and just beat a massive cloudburst that lasted 10 minutes. Our weather fairy is on the job! Then it was back out to enjoy more of the local cuisine – Mexican, of course.

Tomorrow we fly to Sydney where it’s hot but dry. Fingers crossed our good weather luck travels with us as we’re about to tackle climbing to the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Stay tuned.

Editor’s note – tap on the thumbnail photos for a full picture.

After arriving in the rain yesterday afternoon, doing a bit of a walk around the harbour front before enjoying the local cuisine (Vietnamese of course) we slept for 10 hours and hopefully are back on ‘normal’

This morning we awoke to brilliant sunshine and blistering heat. It was 80F before 7:30. Walking across the hotel parking lot the humidity is so thick dripping water is everywhere, including off us! On the other hand, this is the first non rain day in three weeks.

Our hotel restaurant was a bit of an eye opener as multiple cultures were present, predominantly East Indian, and many Asian countries. We were unique.

Off to the train station for the scenic ride up to Kuranda. Unfortunately the train relies on open windows for AC so waiting for departure was agonizing. This part of Queensland is under an extreme heat alert with the possibility of a 40+ degree (104F) humidex.

Once we got underway the motion of the train made the air more bearable and fortunately we were able to get window seats.

The railway is a marvel of physical perseverance as it was built by hand over a seven year period starting in 1884. Containing 15 tunnels and 55 bridges it climbs into the rainforest above Cairns along the Barron Valley Gorge.

Spectacular waterfalls and vistas everywhere

Then we entered the gorge itself and due to the incessant rains the river was an absolute boiling cauldron.

The village of Kuranda is the railway’s destination and caters to the tourist trade. The merchants were happy to see us as it turned out the rain had canceled the train for more than a week. It was straight off to the small game park/zoo for a photo op.

Then of course we had to feed the kangaroos.

And learn the difference between kangaroos (open plains, grasslands, long hops, great speeds, long distances) and wallabies (dense vegetation, quick hops, short bursts). Oh, and at 2 metres (6’ 6”), the red kangaroo is twice as big as a wallaby (and not to be messed with!).

Our return journey was on the Skyrail gondola which whisked us above the massive trees of the rainforest. Some were so tall it was not possible to see the ground below.

We crossed the Baron river at its widest and saw the results of the flooding and continued rain.

Then it was over the forest for miles of green canopy.

We stopped mid way for a boardwalk tour of facts about the forest and learned how species adapt and thrive in unique ways. Very cool (no pun intended).

Back to Cairns where we collapsed in great delight in our quite frosty cold hotel room. Later a walk along the waterfront, outdoor dining (under a giant fan) and a slow amble back to the hotel.

Tomorrow it’s off to the Great Barrier Reef.

A very long day(s) began with the flight departing from Toronto at 6:30 p.m. EST Monday and ended in Cairns on the north east coast at 3:20 p.m. local time Wednesday afternoon. That included a three hour layover in Vancouver which was actually OK as we could have a walk about and another two hours in Sydney which was merely OK.

Toronto – Vancouver 5 hours, Vancouver – Sydney 16 hours, Sydney – Cairns 3 hours, plus the layovers, plus losing a day to the international date line – whew.

However, this being a S.K.I. trip (Spend Kids Inheritance), being in business class with lie down pods certainly helped.

Going back to Economy will be tough.

We left our golf clubs in storage at the Sydney airport to avoid lugging them north given we won’t need them for a few days. Cairns is right up on the north east coast and is a different world from the giant metropolis of Sydney.

It’s got the world’s oldest rain forest next door, the Great Barrier Reef at its doorstep and sugar cane is the major agricultural crop. There are banana plantations and massive fruit farms growing huge volumes of mangoes, oranges, lemons, limes, carambola (starfruit), dragon fruit, durian, papaya, passionfruit, guava, and avocados.

Palm trees line the main streets and it truly feels like the tropics. It’s raining now and has apparently done so virtually nonstop for weeks. Annual rainfall is 6 1/2 FEET with most of it happening during the rainy season (duh) which is now (damn).

Because we are so close to the equator this part of Australia doesn’t use daylight savings time. Thus when flying due north from Sydney, it was a bit confusing to suddenly lose an hour. So in the end I think it’s midafternoon on Wednesday- oh never mind, we will sleep and eat when our bodies tell us to.

Tomorrow is the Kuranda rainforest scenic train followed by the Skytrain gondola trip. Fingers crossed the rain clouds will lift and the views look like the tourist posters.

Editors Note. Tap on the thumbnail pictures to view the full image.

The final day of our biking trip did not include any cycling as a tired body (Mo) and a heavy chest cold (Mark) were used as rationale to sleep in. More than half of the tour group obviously felt the same way so the prep area was chock full of riderless bikes.

Our decision was fortuitous as the rain arrived shortly after the troop who did ride (8) returned to the hotel, talking about a killer uphill cobblestone section.

Over the past 13 days (including a “day off” in Barcelona/Madrid), we have walked/hiked ~168,000 steps followed by 240 Kms of cycling so taking the day off is permissible.

Following lunch, of course, our bus ride of 45 minutes to Porto confirmed there are no straight, flat roads in this area of Portugal. Because the hills that frame the valley are steep and full of ravine off shoots, the roads follow the contours of the land to the full. Up, down, hairpins, edging along cliff sides on fairly narrow roads is not for the faint of heart. And why are the few retaining walls only 18” high? Very non North American.

The approach to Porto does use modern multi lane highways but once in the old town it was back to tiny cobblestone laneways that our bus handled with aplomb.

Out of the bus and goodbyes all around then we walked, of course, to our AirBnB. Rolling suitcases on cobblestone is really a pain but we managed. The riverfront is solid with bars, restaurants and booths selling all manner of trinkets.

The north side (Ribeira) where we are staying looks like a Lego game.

Unfortunately to get there meant crossing the river, taking an elevator five stories up then trudging up 50+ stairs.

If nothing else, the view down to the river and south side of the river from our AirbNb is spectacular.

Once settled we set off to explore the old town whose history goes back more than 1,000 years.

The tourist shops must know something because each storefront had umbrellas and ponchos for sale. And thus, the rain came in buckets. We responded by ducking into a bar and spent the next 90 minutes staying dry (oh and enjoying various libations).

Once the rain stopped we walked down to the river to our restaurant where we were shown to the captains table built into a stone arch overlooking the water.

A wonderful meal that effectively ends our trip as it’s up and out to the airport tomorrow morning for a flight straight to Toronto.

Thanks for following this stop on our go-go stage of retirement. Stay tuned for our Australian adventure coming up in February when we plan to snorkel on the Great Barrier Reef, enjoy the sights and sounds of Sydney and golf at the best of the best around Melbourne’s sand belt. Cheers.

Editors Note. Tap on the thumbnail image to see the full version.

Finally! A beautiful sunny day with negligible wind and no rain in the forecast. This is what we signed up for although the prospect of a 53 mile/85.5 km ride was a bit daunting.

Our hotel overlooks the Douro River and is built, like most buildings in the valley, into the steep slope of the hills. The angled design means a novel funicular elevator that travels on the diagonal versus vertical. Our room is on the 9th level so we get to “enjoy” the full ride.

What to wear was a concerning question given we were facing novel weather conditions. Despite the bright skies the temperature at the start was in the low 50’s (12C) which felt even cooler given the speed at which one travels. We stopped high above the river to admire the view and shed layers.

Our day was divided into two separate rides. The profile of the morning route meant we were in for a lot of hill climbing.

The first leg was a climb of 7-8% incline right out of the gate. That will make the ole ticker start thumping immediately. Fortunately there were some downhills as well.

And, of course, the f*ing cobblestones. And steep downhill to boot.

The post lunch afternoon ride had less changes in elevation but still put us to the test given the initial extended uphill section.

Our ride took us through extensive Eucalyptus forests that had suffered from the devastating forest fires that ravaged Portugal this summer. We also had to take care on some sections due to the plant debris this week’s storm had scattered across the road. Other than that it was pretty clear sailing.

Unlike previous days we were able to stop and enjoy our surroundings.

We wove our way along the hills knowing a speed wobble would have serious consequences.

The Douro hosts many cruise lines that offer wine tours at various points. We wondered if those travelers knew what sights they were missing.

Finally back to the hotel and a celebration of sorts for having completed a fairly tough test. We also said goodbye to two of our guides, Nacho and Oscar, who had to leave for other tours.

A great dinner with lots of laughs wrapped up the day.

Tomorrow we have a short ride (15 miles), weather permitting, before traveling into Porto where our tour ends. A day without any yikes!

The impact of Hurricane Kirk hitting northern Portugal and Spain was felt as far inland as Godim where we were staying. Based on a forecast of very strong winds and constant rain, the decision was made to cancel all rides today. The wind strength was sufficient to knock over a number of trees at the winery and the slick roads, especially the cobblestones, were deemed unsafe.

There was, however, a brief moment during breakfast when the sun broke through.

Plan B was expertly conceived by our guides and started with a tour of the Douro museum. We learned of the evolution of the river valley as a significant wine player and the important role the region plays in the Portuguese economy.

The story of Port dominates one portion of the museum.

After 90 minutes it was back to the hotel for a special treat. We were made grape stompers for a half hour of hilarious fun.

Prancing around in a giant concrete swimming pool knee deep in grapes was a first for all of us. Egged on by a winery employee (in the hat) and loud music we stomped, shuffled and danced much to the astonishment of other tour groups coming through the winery.

Finally we clambered out and were hosed down to remove the purple stain.

Who knows? Two years from now our efforts will be bottled and available for sale.

Back into the vans for a one hour trip along the south bank of the Douro River towards our lunch destination. The decision to cancel the cycling proved to be a good one as the rain lashed down non stop.

The road itself was an incredible series of twists and turns carved into the steep hillside. It was a very uncomfortable drive given the slick roads and sheer drop off down the mountain. Our driver was very nonchalant but his passengers were very happy to arrive at the restaurant.

A great lunch was followed by another hour on the road albeit with a different vehicle and new driver who was much more sedate. The walls of the valley are covered with houses and vineyards. Any land that is not a sheer drop has one or the other built on it.

We learned upon arrival that the road just travelled was, in fact, the 71 Kms cycling route we had been scheduled to cover. It was an “are you kidding me” moment. It was stomach lurching and slow going in a car. We’d still be out there if on our bikes notwithstanding the passing of the storm, finally.

Our hotel for two nights is perched just above the river in Raiva, 44 Kms east of Porto. The rooms are unique with everyone enjoying a private terrace.

We were entertained by a trio of musicians singing Portuguese folk songs. While the words were not understood the music was both lively and haunting. A very pleasant half hour with wine, of course, to unwind before dinner, of course.

Tomorrow could be a killer with a total of 86 Kms of riding planned. If we are on the cliffside road similar to today’s travels it will be a challenge given the elevation changes along the way. I’m not sure how many Yikes that’s worth.

Editors Note. Tap on the thumbnail photos to see the full picture.

We said goodbye to Salamanca as our tour bus trundled west into Portugal. The landscape shifted during the three hour drive from open fields that stretched to the horizon to carefully planned oak plantations to scrubby forests to treeless rocky hillsides. Sadly the grey clouds and rain was ever present.

Our destination was about 100 Kms east of Porto, near Lamosa in the Douro valley where we prepped for our first ride of the day. A mere 32 Kms of roads through the countryside ending in a tiny village called Ucanha.

Given the forecast it was another day of wearing foul weather gear to try and stay both warm and dry.

The morning ride introduced us to cobblestones which were present in every little village along the way. Not only do they shake your entire body, they proved to be quite slippery in the rain.

A real mixed bag of weather – hard cold rain, wind and for much of the ride, just low hanging clouds and mist. Who knew rain really stings when it hits your face when you’re going 45 km/hr? There were some long downhill sections where I topped out just below 60 km/hr. Some riders in the group went even faster!

A word about our e-bikes. Unlike models that have turbo boost buttons that effectively make them mini moto scooters, these require the rider to pedal constantly to benefit from the battery. While they certainly assist on steep inclines we are pounding the pedals every step of the way.

Our ride took us cross country where the red terra cotta rooftops appeared to have been flung haphazardly across the hillsides given the hilly terrain and winding roads. The villages were numerous (therefore cobblestones!) with buildings right next to the edge of the road. The land above the river is full of steeply terraced farms of fruit trees and vineyards, clinging to the slopes leaving one to wonder how harvesting takes place.

Our morning ride ending in Ucanha, site of an ancient Roman toll tower and bridge as well as a fabulous restaurant seemingly carved out of the rock. It was a great meal and a chance to get warm.

Back on the road for the afternoon ride of 40 Kms which unfortunately turned into a bit of a survival test as it started raining almost immediately and didn’t let up for over two hours. And there were cobblestones and more cobblestones. And narrow roads with plenty of hairpin bends. Truly a full menu cycling experience.

We did stop at a lookout but the rain meant our photos couldn’t capture the beauty of the valley.

One of our guides, Nacho, was terrific in keeping everyone’s spirits up despite the downpour.

Fortunately the last few Kms were mostly downhill and we all arrived safely, teeth chattering and soaked, at our hotel which is another five star gem in the village of Cambres, across the river from the town of Godim. The hotel has grown out as part of the Pacheca winery which began operations in 1738.

Our post ride recovery included piping hot showers and for Mo, an hour long massage in the spa.

Pacheca remains true to many old fashioned techniques including hand picking the grapes and believe it or not, stomping them. This was not set up for our benefit – these individuals spend three hour shifts high stepping in the grapes to maximize the output without crushing the seeds. I’m not sure if the purple stain is permanent.

We were taken on a tour of the massive cellars where enormous barrels age the wine.

And lastly we were served three delicious wines and a tawny port to pair with a magnificent meal. Truly a first class experience.

A very long day that captured a multitude of memories. Priceless. Tomorrow two rides are scheduled totaling over 100 Kms. More Yikes.

We couldn’t understand why it was dark at 8:00 a.m. in early October. Did you know that during the Spanish civil war (1936-39) the Spanish leader Franco admired Germany for its industriousness, among other things? So he adopted the same time zone for Spain despite the obvious longitudinal difference. To this day Spain is at odds with its neighbors regarding time hence the late rising and late setting sun.

Did you know Spain is the second most popular tourist destination in the world with over 85 million international visitors in 2023? This is only behind France (100 million) and ahead of the US (67 million).

Did you know Spain produces approximately 45% of the world’s olive oil?

Did you know Spain has the third most (47) UNESCO World Heritage sites after Italy and China?

Did you know that in Madrid, there is a restaurant called Sobrino de Botín, which has been in ope­ration since 1725 and is believed to be the world’s oldest continuously ope­rating restaurant?

I’m sure there are dozens of additional examples of novel facts about Spain but these came across our path on this trip.

Editors Note. Tap on the thumbnail photos to see the full image.

Awoke without, surprisingly, any major aches from yesterday’s ride. The clothes strewn about the room on radiators and hangers were dry for the most part which was good given the sound of rain drumming against the windows.

Our short walk from our villa to breakfast felt odd given it was still dark at 8:00 a.m. Definitely not a good sign.

Given the forecast of rain, more rain and then heavy rain, our guides chose to cancel the morning ride.

The decision was universally welcomed as it simply would have been a test of fortitude without any ability to enjoy the countryside we would be riding through. And that’s without mentioning the wind that has sprung up.

So the morning was spent lounging around and reading while also finishing up drying various clothing items.

At lunch we were treated to a lesson on the various hams produced in the area and given a tasting of various grades/cuts. Salamanca is famous for different cuts and curing techniques as well as using different types of pigs and diets. Who knew?

The hotel where we’re staying is very posh having started life as a monastery, then a mill and now a luxury hotel. They have a large vineyard as well!

A decision was made that a break in the weather was forthcoming so it was time to saddle up. They were right sort of. Over the next two hours we faced intermittent rain and heavy constant wind. Occasional the sun broke through so it was a huge improvement versus yesterday. We rode through hilly sections of farmland and through villages and hamlets where the buildings came right to the edge of the road. I hit a top speed of 53 km/hr on one downhill stretch. Felt very Tour de France like albeit in Spain.

Again no pictures of us in action but we managed the 48.6 Kms quite nicely with less use of the e-bike feature.

Next we were taken into Salamanca for a very informative 90 minute walking tour of the old city. It is home to the 4th(?) oldest university in the world which opened over 1,200 years ago. The cathedrals, buildings and squares were amazing. And the sun was shining!

Tomorrow we move on to Portugal with two rides totaling nearly 80 Kms planned. Double yikes.