The impact of Hurricane Kirk hitting northern Portugal and Spain was felt as far inland as Godim where we were staying. Based on a forecast of very strong winds and constant rain, the decision was made to cancel all rides today. The wind strength was sufficient to knock over a number of trees at the winery and the slick roads, especially the cobblestones, were deemed unsafe.

There was, however, a brief moment during breakfast when the sun broke through.

Plan B was expertly conceived by our guides and started with a tour of the Douro museum. We learned of the evolution of the river valley as a significant wine player and the important role the region plays in the Portuguese economy.

The story of Port dominates one portion of the museum.

After 90 minutes it was back to the hotel for a special treat. We were made grape stompers for a half hour of hilarious fun.

Prancing around in a giant concrete swimming pool knee deep in grapes was a first for all of us. Egged on by a winery employee (in the hat) and loud music we stomped, shuffled and danced much to the astonishment of other tour groups coming through the winery.

Finally we clambered out and were hosed down to remove the purple stain.

Who knows? Two years from now our efforts will be bottled and available for sale.

Back into the vans for a one hour trip along the south bank of the Douro River towards our lunch destination. The decision to cancel the cycling proved to be a good one as the rain lashed down non stop.

The road itself was an incredible series of twists and turns carved into the steep hillside. It was a very uncomfortable drive given the slick roads and sheer drop off down the mountain. Our driver was very nonchalant but his passengers were very happy to arrive at the restaurant.

A great lunch was followed by another hour on the road albeit with a different vehicle and new driver who was much more sedate. The walls of the valley are covered with houses and vineyards. Any land that is not a sheer drop has one or the other built on it.

We learned upon arrival that the road just travelled was, in fact, the 71 Kms cycling route we had been scheduled to cover. It was an “are you kidding me” moment. It was stomach lurching and slow going in a car. We’d still be out there if on our bikes notwithstanding the passing of the storm, finally.

Our hotel for two nights is perched just above the river in Raiva, 44 Kms east of Porto. The rooms are unique with everyone enjoying a private terrace.

We were entertained by a trio of musicians singing Portuguese folk songs. While the words were not understood the music was both lively and haunting. A very pleasant half hour with wine, of course, to unwind before dinner, of course.

Tomorrow could be a killer with a total of 86 Kms of riding planned. If we are on the cliffside road similar to today’s travels it will be a challenge given the elevation changes along the way. I’m not sure how many Yikes that’s worth.

Editors Note. Tap on the thumbnail photos to see the full picture.

We said goodbye to Salamanca as our tour bus trundled west into Portugal. The landscape shifted during the three hour drive from open fields that stretched to the horizon to carefully planned oak plantations to scrubby forests to treeless rocky hillsides. Sadly the grey clouds and rain was ever present.

Our destination was about 100 Kms east of Porto, near Lamosa in the Douro valley where we prepped for our first ride of the day. A mere 32 Kms of roads through the countryside ending in a tiny village called Ucanha.

Given the forecast it was another day of wearing foul weather gear to try and stay both warm and dry.

The morning ride introduced us to cobblestones which were present in every little village along the way. Not only do they shake your entire body, they proved to be quite slippery in the rain.

A real mixed bag of weather – hard cold rain, wind and for much of the ride, just low hanging clouds and mist. Who knew rain really stings when it hits your face when you’re going 45 km/hr? There were some long downhill sections where I topped out just below 60 km/hr. Some riders in the group went even faster!

A word about our e-bikes. Unlike models that have turbo boost buttons that effectively make them mini moto scooters, these require the rider to pedal constantly to benefit from the battery. While they certainly assist on steep inclines we are pounding the pedals every step of the way.

Our ride took us cross country where the red terra cotta rooftops appeared to have been flung haphazardly across the hillsides given the hilly terrain and winding roads. The villages were numerous (therefore cobblestones!) with buildings right next to the edge of the road. The land above the river is full of steeply terraced farms of fruit trees and vineyards, clinging to the slopes leaving one to wonder how harvesting takes place.

Our morning ride ending in Ucanha, site of an ancient Roman toll tower and bridge as well as a fabulous restaurant seemingly carved out of the rock. It was a great meal and a chance to get warm.

Back on the road for the afternoon ride of 40 Kms which unfortunately turned into a bit of a survival test as it started raining almost immediately and didn’t let up for over two hours. And there were cobblestones and more cobblestones. And narrow roads with plenty of hairpin bends. Truly a full menu cycling experience.

We did stop at a lookout but the rain meant our photos couldn’t capture the beauty of the valley.

One of our guides, Nacho, was terrific in keeping everyone’s spirits up despite the downpour.

Fortunately the last few Kms were mostly downhill and we all arrived safely, teeth chattering and soaked, at our hotel which is another five star gem in the village of Cambres, across the river from the town of Godim. The hotel has grown out as part of the Pacheca winery which began operations in 1738.

Our post ride recovery included piping hot showers and for Mo, an hour long massage in the spa.

Pacheca remains true to many old fashioned techniques including hand picking the grapes and believe it or not, stomping them. This was not set up for our benefit – these individuals spend three hour shifts high stepping in the grapes to maximize the output without crushing the seeds. I’m not sure if the purple stain is permanent.

We were taken on a tour of the massive cellars where enormous barrels age the wine.

And lastly we were served three delicious wines and a tawny port to pair with a magnificent meal. Truly a first class experience.

A very long day that captured a multitude of memories. Priceless. Tomorrow two rides are scheduled totaling over 100 Kms. More Yikes.

We couldn’t understand why it was dark at 8:00 a.m. in early October. Did you know that during the Spanish civil war (1936-39) the Spanish leader Franco admired Germany for its industriousness, among other things? So he adopted the same time zone for Spain despite the obvious longitudinal difference. To this day Spain is at odds with its neighbors regarding time hence the late rising and late setting sun.

Did you know Spain is the second most popular tourist destination in the world with over 85 million international visitors in 2023? This is only behind France (100 million) and ahead of the US (67 million).

Did you know Spain produces approximately 45% of the world’s olive oil?

Did you know Spain has the third most (47) UNESCO World Heritage sites after Italy and China?

Did you know that in Madrid, there is a restaurant called Sobrino de Botín, which has been in ope­ration since 1725 and is believed to be the world’s oldest continuously ope­rating restaurant?

I’m sure there are dozens of additional examples of novel facts about Spain but these came across our path on this trip.

Editors Note. Tap on the thumbnail photos to see the full image.

Awoke without, surprisingly, any major aches from yesterday’s ride. The clothes strewn about the room on radiators and hangers were dry for the most part which was good given the sound of rain drumming against the windows.

Our short walk from our villa to breakfast felt odd given it was still dark at 8:00 a.m. Definitely not a good sign.

Given the forecast of rain, more rain and then heavy rain, our guides chose to cancel the morning ride.

The decision was universally welcomed as it simply would have been a test of fortitude without any ability to enjoy the countryside we would be riding through. And that’s without mentioning the wind that has sprung up.

So the morning was spent lounging around and reading while also finishing up drying various clothing items.

At lunch we were treated to a lesson on the various hams produced in the area and given a tasting of various grades/cuts. Salamanca is famous for different cuts and curing techniques as well as using different types of pigs and diets. Who knew?

The hotel where we’re staying is very posh having started life as a monastery, then a mill and now a luxury hotel. They have a large vineyard as well!

A decision was made that a break in the weather was forthcoming so it was time to saddle up. They were right sort of. Over the next two hours we faced intermittent rain and heavy constant wind. Occasional the sun broke through so it was a huge improvement versus yesterday. We rode through hilly sections of farmland and through villages and hamlets where the buildings came right to the edge of the road. I hit a top speed of 53 km/hr on one downhill stretch. Felt very Tour de France like albeit in Spain.

Again no pictures of us in action but we managed the 48.6 Kms quite nicely with less use of the e-bike feature.

Next we were taken into Salamanca for a very informative 90 minute walking tour of the old city. It is home to the 4th(?) oldest university in the world which opened over 1,200 years ago. The cathedrals, buildings and squares were amazing. And the sun was shining!

Tomorrow we move on to Portugal with two rides totaling nearly 80 Kms planned. Double yikes.

Our new tour group met in central Madrid – all 26 of us! Four Canadians, two from New Zealand, the rest from the US, albeit a good geographic dispersion.

There are serious cyclists sporting special shoes, carrying unique pedals and wearing “the gear”. Then there’s some of us who can vaguely describe what a bicycle looks like.

On to the bus for a 2 1/2 drive through northern Spain to Salamanca. Think western prairies – miles of flat agricultural fields in all directions. The chatter through the bus related to the grey and darkening skies we were driving towards. Inevitably the rain began, much to our dismay.

A nice light lunch in Salamanca was followed by the guide’s presentation of how to manage your bike given the weather, roads, traffic and cobblestones in our future. We were outfitted with the essentials (GPS, water bottle, pinion) and shown how the e-bike features worked. Wearing rain jackets and multiple layers for warmth we set off.

Unfortunately no pictures are available as we rode for two hours in a driving rain that precluded taking one’s camera out. It rained. It was the dog isn’t getting a walk today rain. It was so bad it was a no one in their right mind would think of golfing, rain.

But on we pedaled. Mo had a flat tire early but fortunately the support staff was close at hand to deal with it. An hour later, Mo had another flat tire, again in a propitious location as the support van was near by. A new wheel was installed versus a repair this time.

The e-bike features four levels of assistance. We stayed on #2 and 3 and avoided the turbo option to salvage a small bit of pride. Five of the 26 are riding standard bikes. Good luck to them.

We did stop for a water/snack break near the end.

We ended up completing a 32 Km ride despite being drenched. Our accommodation however, is first class with plenty of room to hang sopping wet clothes everywhere.

Hot showers, dry clothes and a group welcome with copious quantities of very good Rioja wine followed. A very nice meal, lots of conversation and more wine filled the evening. It’s a good group and should be a fine week.

Tomorrow there are two separate rides. The morning segment is a 48 Km leg while the post lunch section is “only” 18 Km. Given the forecast is for rain all day it will be a test to say the least.

Up and out early to mosey along the mostly deserted streets of the central city. Coffee at a sidewalk cafe then back into explore mode. Given the numerous alleys, curved narrow streets, broad boulevards, pedestrian walkways and ubiquitous wrought iron balconies it makes one realize how sterile and square edged our “tourist areas” are at home.

The Mercat de La Boqueria is the famous market in central Madrid. Like its brethren in Barcelona it is a cornucopia of sights, sounds and smells.

A specialty of the region is Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, the most expensive ham in the world with prices ranging over €500 per kilo. Slightly lesser expensive options were on display here. We passed.

After the market we retrieved our luggage and decided to walk to the train station, 45 minutes away, so we could see more sights along the way.

Then it was onto the high speed train to Madrid. And I do mean high speed!

Our orientation to Madrid was of two extremes. The taxi system was efficient to a fault with hundreds of people accommodated in minutes. Then, however, we got stuck in Madrid traffic, in a tunnel, for over 1/2 hour. Eventually we abandoned the taxi and walked the last mile.

The light was fading quickly as we walked down from the hotel to Opera Square and the Royal Palace (Palacio Real de Madrid).

Another great dinner in a sidewalk cafe and a post meal stroll ended the day.

Tomorrow, the bicycles! Yikes.

Editors note. In the thumbnail format some pictures may appear cut off. Tap on the photo for the full image.

A final group lunch then onto the bus for the two hour ride to Barcelona. Back into the urban sprawl and major traffic congestion. Our tour group said its goodbyes at the central train station and we set off for our hotel, suitcase wheels clattering across the cobblestones.

Dumping our suitcases and backpacks we flagged a taxi to Sagrada Familia, perhaps one of the most iconic structures in Europe and maybe, beyond.

One cannot aptly describe this basilica and even pictures don’t do it justice. Please look it up on Wikipedia to understand the history and current plans for its ongoing construction.

The architectural details and design defy description. We had an audio tour downloaded which was excellent and had each element of the project explained. The stories carved in stone on the exterior were amazing.

Once inside the stain glass windows glowed and shimmered in the bright sunlight. There were dozens and dozens of windows of different shapes and sizes, each more breathtaking than the last.

Each window told a story as well as being integral to allowing light to flow onto different interior components.

The columns, flying buttresses, ceilings and balconies were all unique in their appearance and style. It was sensory overload but jaw dropping.

It is difficult to imagine how the building trades of a century ago managed to create portions of such a monument with the tools and technology of the day.

We finished by walking through the museum to appreciate how creative the architect, Gaudi, had been more than 100 years ago with his drawings and plaster molds.

There was enough daylight left for a mini wander through the touristy centre and do touristy things.

Everywhere one turns, history and unique architecture abounds.

More walking. More admiring. More people watching. Dinner in an outdoor cafe. Grateful to have a comfortable hotel room. Tomorrow is more Barcelona exploration before catching the train to Madrid where we will meet our next tour.

Editors note. Some pictures may appear cut off in the thumbnail format. Click on the photo to see it properly.

We took the vans south from our hotel to near Cala s’Alguer and were warned today’s hike would be quite technical, ending in Tamariu. That proved to be an accurate description given the numerous trail types we traversed.

The walk started on the top of cliffs, wended it’s way through woodlands, up and down rocky slopes, across a beach including wading through the surf then back up to the cliff tops and back down and so on.

Simply a spectacular morning walk that had a few challenging moments mixed in. PS – walking on rocks when traversing different coves along the beach in bare feet is quite painful at times.

After a massive lunch that took two hours – this plate of mussels was just the appetizer …….

oh, and half a bottle of wine……each…..five of us joined our two guides for the second half of the hike. The remainder went back to the hotel via foot or shuttle for a siesta.

Early on it felt like a huge error in judgment given the very steep climb to the local lighthouse. But what a view!

For perspective, we began our morning on the far side of the leftmost peninsula and followed the coastline to this lookout (and we’re only half way to Tamariu).

From there it was a series of twists and turns, up and down.

And the wondrous views never stopped despite our mostly staring at our shoe tops given the rocky trails.

Finally we reached Tamariu where cold beverages and our shuttle awaited.

Although not a huge distance (~18 Kms as a crow flies) the elevation changes made for a taxing day.

A final group dinner with mountains of food and drink topped off the evening. Notwithstanding the calories burned by hiking each day it’s a wonder we haven’t gained a ton of weight given the number and size of the meals (and the local wines 😁).

Tomorrow we pack up and head to Barcelona where everyone goes their separate ways – except some of us who will take on the hills/mountains of northern Spain on bicycles for a week. Stay tuned.

A rest and travel day given our relocation to the Costa Brava in north eastern Spain.

But first we spent the morning wandering through the weekly market that occupies central Saint Remy. Vendors of everything set up stalls to attract tourists and locals alike. It was a madhouse of colours, people and aromas. While the pictures here focus on the food section of the market there were dozens of stalls offering clothing and “you name it”. Hundreds of sellers occupied various streets, alleys and a town square.

Our only purchase was a small bag of olives!

We walked from the market along Van Gogh way given the painter spent time in 1889 in Saint Remy in a mental institution. He painted many of his better known works during that time and the paintings including letters to his brother are displayed along the way.

Our rendezvous point was an excavation site of an ancient Gaul/Roman village called Glanum. Using an audio guide we toured the ruins and marveled at the ingenuity of the ancient builders and the stone workmanship.

Then it was on to a big coach for a long drive south west through Nimes, Montpellier and across the Spainish border to Calella de Palafrugell. This is a former fishing village now popular with tourists and wealthy Spaniards seeking a second home for holidays.

The drive was very unspectacular as it rained most of the way so one’s attention was spent reading and nodding off.

Prior to having dinner in the town, a group of us walked with a local guild for an hour to learn of the areas history and evolution. Most interesting.

Tomorrow promises to be a challenge as we will hike along the coastline for ~18 Kms over very undulating trails from cliff top to beaches.

Editors Note: some pictures may appear to be cut off. Tap on the photo to get the full exposure.

Another eclectic day of hiking trails, historic sites, ochre cliffs, wine tasting and the nuances of Provence.

We began at Le Pont Julien, a Roman built bridge in 3 BC. Incredibly the bridge continued to operate as a roadway until 2000 when a new bridge was built 50m away.

Then it was time to hike through the fields, vineyards and wood lots. The natural aromas of lavender, sage, thyme and pine provided a gentle reminder we were truly in Provence.

Our first destination was Roussillon, two hours away. A member of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages). Wine, fruit orchards and the mining of ochres have been supplanted by tourism.

A short walk away, the ochre cliffs provided an amazing example of nature’s vivid palette. These hills were the source of pigments first used in the textile industry.

Lunch was a simple baguette eaten while sitting on a small wall – tres Franc.

Back on the road to a most important stop, the Tara winery. There we tasted six different vintages and even Mark had to agree the Rose was quite delicious.

Back on the trail towards Gordes and more bushwhacking albeit mild at best and aromatic throughout (herds de Provence?).

At the base of the hill upon which Gordes sits the option to take a van the last 4.5 kms was offered. Only two of us refused the ride and we set off with one of the guides to climb up into the village.

The first third was a gentle incline on a well beaten gravel track. Then we turned uphill with a very steep incline. Legs and lungs protested loudly.

The town is literally built into and onto the cliffs. One has to wonder how the ancient architects managed and how the builders created structures with such lasting abilities.

A long day (first time I’ve hit just under 30,000 steps in one day) continued with a one hour ride to Saint Remy de Provence where we checked in to a 5* hotel. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to enjoy the spa but a nice casual dinner in town was a nice conclusion.